Bodega Hacienda López de Haro
Outstanding Value Rioja
There are times when one just wants to sit down and enjoy a wine for its own sake, without having to think too much about it. It is, however, a lot harder than it sounds. The wine has to give pleasure, which means it has to be well made, of the right age, full flavoured and well balanced, and do all of that at a price one can forget about. There are many wines that promise to do this, but all too often they fall down along the way. When I read on the López de Haro website that their wines “leave the winery ready to be enjoyed and understood, without pretensions or posturing, with the intention of being enjoyed and being exciting”, I would, therefore, have been hugely sceptical if I hadn’t already been persuaded by the wines themselves. Instead, I can only admit that they know exactly what they’re doing (even their tasting notes actually relate to the wine in the bottle). What I still can’t quite believe is the quality and the price at which they do it. They don’t cut any corners. Old-vine Tempranillo on poor soils in the heart of Rioja Alta ensures low production, the grapes are manually harvested and the wines are judiciously aged in a mixture of French and American oak barrels – the oak only adds to the wine, never takes it over. Classic Rioja with modern refinements. And when I’d finished tasting them, I couldn’t wait to put down my pen, grab a proper glass and just indulge. I encourage you to do the same.
The wines are due to arrive in a couple of weeks, all things being equal. Price is per case 6 x 75cl inclusive of VAT. All orders under £200 are subject to a delivery charge.
10% discount on 24 bottles or more, may be mixed
2017 Crianza – £65.70
This is so delightful. Substantial but quaffable. Perfect with meat or cheese, perfect without. Ideal for a summer barbecue or a winter fireside. Pure fun!
Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano; 18 months in French and American oak barrels. Deep red, still with a hint of purple at the edge. Plum, raspberry, vanilla on the nose, with coffee and liquorice emerging after a while. This all comes through on the palate, liquorice more noticeable, with a distinct but restrained touch of oak. Medium weight, good ripeness, but surprisingly light on its feet; refreshing acidity, mild (but discernible) tannins, great balance. Medium long finish, slightly peppery but clean.
2011 Gran Reserva – £113.70
Once all the guests have gone, settle down to something a little more soothing (and seductive). Having tasted this, I just wanted to go back to it, even though I knew I shouldn’t. Best with food, but almost anything is suitable. A 2011 Gran Reserva of this quality, at this price, is terrific value.
Tempranillo and Graciano; 30 months in French and American oak. A deeper red than the Crianza, with terracotta edges. Bright nose, with floral notes, vanilla, ripe red fruit, coffee, smoked bacon, cloves, chocolate. Much the same in the mouth, with again oakiness evident but unobtrusive. What strikes one, though, is how harmonious and integrated all these flavours are. Very well balanced, ripe fruit to the fore but enough acidity and soft, ripe tannins to provide real structure with a lovely, velvety texture. Long complex, fruity finish, leaving a beautiful velvety feel in the mouth.